2021 TRENDS: 1/ Re-commerce
A trend that has gained momentum over the years experienced a boom during the pandemic. While it might save you money (and precious closet space), shifting consumer behaviour might be a solution to alarming environmental statistics. Could this lockdown clear out become a new way of life?
What we're seeing
RE-COMMERCE REVOLUTION
The idea of selling pre-loved clothes isn’t a new concept – thrift, second-hand and charity shops have been around for decades after all. What’s clear is that this is moving mainstream and into previously uninitiated territories, like luxury retail.
Re-commerce is part of a complete overhaul of our attitude to apparel. With 79% of consumers plan to cut their clothing budget in the next 12 months we can expect to see more of them buying second hand.
This shift in perception has surprising effects on consumer mood. We now feel proud to shop second-hand. It creates similar feelings to pride when we choose preloved clothes and guilt or shame when choosing less sustainable options. This change in behaviour isn’t just about being thrifty, it might help to solve an increasing dilemma created by the fast fashion industry – waste.
THE NEW CONUNDRUM
75 lbs of CO2e to produce a pair of jeans
700 gallons of water to make one new T-shirt
50% of us throw unwanted clothes in the bin.
That means 64% of the 32 billion garments made each year end up in landfill.
THERE IS HOPE
If we chose to buy one item used instead of new, it would save:
5.7 billion lbs of CO2e (or 66 million trees planted)
25 billion gallons of water (1.25 billion showers)
449 million lbs of waste (almost 19 thousand rubbish trucks full)
“Even as the retail industry has slumped, dragged down by disappointing earnings and an unending trade war, resale is exploding”
– Forbes
“Unlike after the financial crisis, we believe the period after Covid is an opportunity for brands to embrace sustainability and we expect to see a shift towards sustainable fashion as the economic outlook improves.”
– Barclays
FOUR REASONS WHY WE SELL OUR CLOTHES
· Make room in our closets
· Environmental kindness
· Make extra cash
· Replace with new threads
LUXURY REDEFINED
For the longest time luxury fashion and second-hand clothes had very little in common.
Department stores like Selfridges have been the destination for those seeking designer brands and beauty products at a premium. So, the fashion world was in for a surprise when Oxfam was the latest retailer to set up shop in the hallowed halls of 400 Oxford Street. Curated by Bay Garnett, the collection is part of Selfridges commitment to their sustainability policy and Oxfam’s own #SecondHandSeptember campaign.
That’s brilliant for fashion retailers, but what about the creators? More fashion houses are offering free repair services so when you drop a significant amount of your pay cheque on a new pair of shoes or accessory, it really can be worn for a lifetime. In an interview with Vogue, Hermés artistic director, Pierre-Alexis Dumas, recalls their grandfather remarking that, “Luxury is that which you can repair.”
Traditional British shoemakers, Trickers, use their Instagram to showcase their love of repairs. Every month 100 or so customers send in their shoes for a little TLC. The oldest pair has been over 40 years old. We’re sure few of us can claim to have a pair of boots knocking around with that much vintage appeal.
Until recently only a few of the more established fashion houses have offered in-house repairs, which, given fashion’s business model (the desire for the new), is no surprise. It’s encouraging to see a greater number of brands begin to change their model, reduce their impact and offer repair services that can see garments being passed down through generations of fashion lovers.
Sojo is a new app that makes it easier than ever to keep your favourite pieces in good nick. Dubbed as ‘Deliveroo but for clothing alterations & repairs,’ its service collects items from customers and has them mended before returning. The founder is a 23-year-old fashion-tech entrepreneur, Josephine Philips. She started Sojo after moving away from fast fashion a number of years ago, recognising the lack of workers’ rights and poor conditions the majority of whom are women of colour.
Like Josephine, it’s some of our youngest spenders, Gen Z, that want more sustainability and transparency from the brands they buy from. 73% of them would prefer it. Online platforms such as Depop – “the fashion marketplace app where the next generation come to discover unique items”, ThredUp, The Real Real and Thrift+ all offer second-hand or sustainable options and an increasing number of preloved or vintage luxury too.
ONE SIZE DOESN’T ALWAYS FIT ALL
As with most things, there is a balance between buying second hand and choosing ethical brands. There’s social sustainability to be considered – the very hands that make our clothes in the first place. If you’re choosing to be more mindful of how you spend your fashion allowance take a bit of time to get to know the brands you shop with – are workers paid fairly, do they have a good working environment? Whether you choose to shop second hand or seek ethically made apparel, they’re both big steps in the right direction (hopefully in a pair of shoes that last for decades, not just a single season).
OUR TICKETY TAKE
A staggering statistic – 64% of the 32 billion new garments made each year end up in landfill. Customer’s shopping behaviours and budgets are changing. If they’re unsatisfied with a brand’s eco credentials they will simply shop elsewhere. With this in mind, we believe it’s key for brands to embrace sustainability across all industries. Sustainability is no longer the ‘nice to have’ part of a business model – it is a must have.